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ICHAFU: A Headgear That Tells a Thousand Stories

Ichafu is a common name for traditional head gear in Alaigbo, being the prime fashion accessory for igbo women for over a century and half. This article explores the history, origins, etymology and influence of Ichafu on modern day Nigerian fashion.

a young woman on Ichafu Photo credit : @Auntyadaa on X
a young woman on Ichafu Photo credit : @Auntyadaa on X

 

The History and Etymology of Ichafu 

The origins of Ichafu starts with our contact with the Europeans. The word Ichafu is derived from the French word “chiffon” or “couvre-chef” which means headgear or scarf. . To show more emphasis on the fact that it is for the head, some regard it as “ịchafu isi”. But before then let’s look at what head gears were called in precolonial times, most people called it Ụnarị (or Ụnalị, Ụlarị, Ịlarị) depending on dialect , some dialects say aka-isi, okaraisi, ihe-isi .

 

Bianca Ojukwu donning a wig . Photo credit: Daily review online
Bianca Ojukwu donning a ichafu . Photo credit: Daily review online

The structure of Ichafu

Ichafu is usually big, bold and not patterned to be even or straight. It’s mostly tied to sprout up like the tall raised feathers of a peacock. Which symbolizes the pride and prestige that Igbo women are well known for.

 

Occasions That Demand The Tying Of Ichafu

 Most times igbo women tie ichafu for occasions like 

Traditional weddings: 

Igbo women tie ichafu for their igba nkwu ( which is the celebratory stage of the marriage process), where they get to dress their best, while the ichafu sits elegantly as a crown on their head.

Two women in Akwete cloth attire, circa 1960s, wearing two overlapping cloths.Credit: Vintage Nigeria
Two women in Akwete cloth attire, circa 1960s, wearing two overlapping cloths.
Credit: Vintage Nigeria

Funerals:

Ichafu is also tied during burials as a fashion statement and sometimes in support for family of the deceased , representing their age group etc.

Title Taking:

Ichafu is a status symbol for titled women and those who would take up titles as well. This can be seen with ndi “odu”  and ndi ekwe at events or at title takings

Grace Nkemdilim Azuokwu and Agatha Emeagwali at the Odu title ceremony, Onitsha, 1996.
Grace Nkemdilim Azuokwu and Agatha Emeagwali at the Odu title ceremony, Onitsha, 1996.

Materials used for Ichafu

Damask: a stiff shiny patterned fabric, is the most popular fabric. Goes with a variety of outfits , matches jewelries and elevates appearances. 

Other materials include; George, Brocade, Ankara , Velvet and Lace. Sometimes beads are used for beautification and styling of the hair/head as opposed to using Ichafu.

Ichafu as it transcends through generations. photo credit: Beverly Naya on X
Ichafu as it transcends through generations. photo credit: Beverly Naya on X

The influence of ichafu on modern day fashion:

Ichafu has made a comeback in the Nigerian fashion scene , with its peculiar silhouette, bold and high standing pattern. From brides like akwaugo rocking it this year, to ciara walking down the runaway crowned with ichafu with  Gozie Okeke’s akanchawa  blasting in the background paying homage to origins of Ichafu  . It shows that Ichafu has come here to stay and it would be here for a long time to come.

Ciara at the lagos fashion week donning an ichafu . Photo credit : Marie claire Nigeria
Ciara at the lagos fashion week donning an ichafu . Photo credit : Marie claire Nigeria
Akwaugo wedding photoshoot . Photocredit ; officialbigdealweddings
Akwaugo wedding photoshoot . Photocredit ; officialbigdealweddings

 

References:

  • Chika, O. (2018). The Headtie – The Tie that Binds Us. Bellanaija.
  • Maazị, O. O. (2023). Headtie or headgear in Igbo is called ịchafu, right?-X (formerly known as twitter)
  • kingsgate (2023). Embrace the Culture: Explore the Elegance of Igbo Women’s Attire
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