Conversations about what constitutes “traditional” Igbo material culture often raise debates. It is particularly relevant in clothing, crafts, and other visible manifestations of Igbo identity. These conversations are complex and have many sides, showing how Igbo culture changes and interacts with both its own diversity and outside influences.
What Constitutes Igbo Material Culture?
Igbo material culture refers to objects, artefacts, and so on representing the Igbo people’s beliefs, beauty, and traditions. However, pinpointing what is authentically Igbo can be challenging due to the fluidity of the culture over time and the pan-ethnic nature of the Igbo identity.
For instance:
- Regional Variations: Igbo culture has several subcultures, each with its own practice. Some things considered part of “Igbo culture” might only show the traditions of certain regions. For example, the okpu mme (red cap), widely associated with Igbo traditional leadership, is not a universal symbol across all Igbo-speaking areas.

- Cultural Borrowing and Adaptation: The Igbo have long adopted and adapted elements from neighbouring cultures and foreign influences. Examples include the George fabric, an adaptation of Indian Madras, and red coral beads, which the Portuguese brought to Benin in the 15th century. These changes make it impossible to determine what is original and what has been added.

Static or Evolving? The Nature of Igbo Culture
Many people believe that Igbo culture, or any culture, does not change. But even before colonial times, Igbo culture was always changing and adapting. Colonialism and globalization sped up these changes by bringing in new materials, ideas, and practices. Colonialism and globalization sped up these changes, bringing in new materials, ideas, and practices.
This raises important questions:
- Why is the influence of a neighbouring Igbo subculture considered less foreign than an influence from cultures outside the Igbo?
- Should new ideas and outside influences be seen as part of Igbo culture, or are they still foreign things?
Examples of Material Culture Debate
One important debate is about the ishiagu (a fabric with lion head designs), which many people wear for ceremonies today. Some people say it shows Igbo tradition, while others say it is a new style and does not show what Igbo people used to wear.

Similarly, red coral beads and factory-made ball gowns show the conflict between worldwide fashion and actual cultural styles. Even though red coral beads are now part of the Igbo style, they originally came from the Mediterranean, and trade connections historically supported their use.
A Path Forward: Local Production and Aesthetic Authenticity
One way to handle these complexities is by basing the definition of Igbo material culture on local production and traditional art. For instance:
- Locally Made Materials: Traditional Igbo clothing is made from materials grown, spun, and woven in the Igbo area. This would also include using patterns, symbols, and ùrì (traditional Igbo design) that reflect the Igbo way of seeing the world.
- Support for Indigenous Artisans: By focusing on traditional crafts like woodcarving, panel making, and blacksmithing, the Igbo community can help keep their culture alive while assisting local businesses.
- Cultural Events as Economic Drivers: Annual cultural festivals and ceremonies will attract millions and can showcase and promote these indigenous industries. Developing a local economy based on the production of cultural goods can enable the Igbo people to keep their culture vibrant while creating stable employment opportunities for artisans.
The conversation about Igbo material culture is complex and vital. It encompasses questions of authenticity, evolution, and identity in a rapidly changing world. By focusing on local materials and traditional styles, the Igbo can create a way that respects their heritage while adjusting to modern life. This approach helps preserve cultural identity and boosts economic growth, ensuring Igbo traditions stay strong and vital for future generations.
References:
- Face2Face Africa. (2023, April 10). Isiagu, the traditional attire that identifies the Nigerian Igbo community.
- Obi, M. N. (2021, March 15). The evolution of Akwete cloth and Igbo textile art.
- Igboness. (2021, March 10). Ishi-agu and other Igbo artefacts- by Mazi Ndukwe.
- Traditional Attire. (2024, March 9). The significance of Isiagu: A symbol of prestige and tradition among the Igbo people.
- Okwu ID. (2022, June 5). What materials do Igbo people wear?
- Traditional Attire. (n.d.). The Igbo – Traditional attire.